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Diving into the controversial raw diet

Have you thought about feeding your pet a raw diet? Or heard of other people doing so? Ever wondered what the fuss was about, or if it was even safe? We sat down with one of our most trusted Veterinarians, Nicole, who answered some of our most asked questions about the controversial raw diet. 

Firstly, what is a raw diet?

Typically people think of the BARF diet when speaking about raw feeding. This is the Bones And Raw Food diet. If we think of wild dogs and wolves, they were predators; hunting and catching prey, with seasonal variety. A raw diet simulates what they would get in the wild and is species appropriate. Dogs and cats are anatomically and physiologically designed to eat and break down raw meat and bones. In order to best simulate this, people feed their pets raw meat, bones, offcuts with fur, etc. This would often be instead of feeding dry biscuits. 

Many people say how beneficial it can be for dogs especially, do you agree? 

I do tend to agree with this, from a health-based perspective. Again, if we think of the evolution and domestication of dogs, they came from wild dogs and wolves. These animals were catching a variety of prey, and have been designed to cope with raw meat and bones. 

Some breeds are now very much evolved from the wild dog due to human intervention and breeding. For example, a Husky versus a Pug. I would say that both would benefit from a health perspective, but due to the anatomical conformation of a Pug, I would actually be weary of feeding them raw and bones. Home-prepared raw diets need to be prepared carefully in order for the animal to get all its essential nutrients. 

I also think that some dry biscuits can cause food sensitivities, if they have preservatives or other processed foods that dogs would not be exposed to in the wild. 

When feeding raw, the animal does tend to need to work a bit more to eat as well, which is always a positive for maintaining good behaviours. It allows for more stimulation during feeding. It also helps to maintain oral health, keeping teeth clean and strong. 

What are the risks involved in feeding a raw diet? 

One of the main risks is infectious disease transmission. As we all know, raw meat can be full of bacterial and parasitic organisms which can be dangerous when consumed causing illness. Some of the organisms found in raw meat are zoonotic meaning they can be transmitted to humans. 

Another risk is bones. Bones can occasionally get stuck in the gastro-intestinal tract and cause an obstruction, sometimes requiring surgical correction.  

What advice would you give to clients considering switching their pets to a raw diet? 

My first piece of advice would be sanitation. I would advise people to be very conscious when preparing raw meat and bones, making sure that dishes and cutlery used for preparation are sanitised appropriately. If feeding inside the house, I would recommend a rubber feeding mat to facilitate cleanliness. Hand washing is also very important. If feeding raw, I would not allow the dog to lick the humans as much either as this can transmit bacteria. 

Raw takes a lot more effort to formulate and prepare if doing it at home. It is essential to ensure your dog is getting all the nutrition it requires, so you may need to consult a nutritionist for advice. 

If starting out, I would suggest finding a company that pre-formulates bones and raw food so it will ensure the proper macro and micronutrients. After doing more research, you can start formulating at home. 

I would also suggest having a bag of dry biscuits readily available at all times in case of travel. It will be much more complicated to travel with raw food. 

If giving your dog a bone for the first time, ensure they are supervised in case of choking. 

Closely monitor your dog’s faeces while they are on a raw food diet as this can give you a lot of information about how well they are digesting and absorbing. 

Thank you Nicole for sharing these insights with us. If you have any further questions regarding the raw diet or if you are considering starting your own pet on a raw diet, please do not hesitate to contact Pet Doctor on (08) 8268 6777 and book an appointment with Nicole today. 

Chihuaha

A Miracle for Molly

John and Liz knew that their beloved Molly wasn’t going to be able to live much longer due to an unfortunate case of lead poisoning. Molly’s body was destroying her own red blood cells and she was rapidly becoming weak and lifeless. But all that changed after we were able to miraculously give Molly the blood transfusion that she so desperately needed. 

Finding blood donors in the veterinary industry is very difficult, as the donor often needs to be found extremely quickly. Not only does the clinic need to find a matching donor, but that donor needs to be able to pass a number of tests, and the clinic then needs to be equipped to facilitate the procedure. We here at Pet Doctor are so proud that we were able to make this happen for Molly. 

Meet our donors, Rochelle and Titan! 

We can not thank the amazing parents of both Titan and Rochelle enough, who both essentially dropped what they were doing in order to bring in their pets and allow them to donate their blood for Molly when they were asked. We are so humbled to have clients that care so much, not only about their own pet(s), but also about others. 

As we could only give Molly one transfusion per day. Rochelle donated her blood first, followed by Titan, who donated his blood the very next day. Because of this, within a week, Molly was back to her normal, playful and bossy self!! We still can’t believe it! 

We would like to take this opportunity to remind everyone to keep any and all products containing lead out of reach of their pets. It is extremely toxic and life-threatening to them. Saving Molly was a rare and miraculous event, and we can’t guarantee we could do it again for another.

If you suspect your pet has eaten something dangerous or life-threatening to them, please call the Australian Animal Poison Hotline immediately on 1300 TOX PET to seek advice.

Budgy on a perch

What to do if you find a sick or injured bird

Have you ever found a sick or injured bird and wanted to help it, but unsure how? Birds are often found on the ground unable to fly and appear to be injured. Often you may not know the exact reason for their injuries. 

If the bird has any obvious injuries (e.g. broken wing or leg, evidence of blood) – it will require immediate veterinary attention. Please take the bird to a wildlife hospital or vet as soon as possible. If you are unable to transport it, please contact a local wildlife rescue group.

Most common species of birds can be captured by placing a towel over the bird ensuring that the head is covered. Gently secure their wings, pick it up and place it into a cardboard box. 

It is important, however, to observe the following guidelines when capturing and handling a sick or injured bird:

  • Care must be taken not to restrict their breathing. They do not have a diaphragm and can be easily suffocated if the chest is restrained too tightly.
  • Sick and injured birds should be housed in a cardboard box with holes punched in the sides for ventilation. Putting them in a wire cage can cause significant feather damage which may render them unreleasable.
  • Line the bottom of the cardboard box with a towel.
  • Birds of prey (raptors) can inflict nasty injuries with their talons and can sustain irreparable feather damage if housed incorrectly. It is best to call a specialised wildlife rescuer to capture and handle raptors.
  • Large water and seabirds can also inflict injury with their strong wings and some species have a razor-sharp edge to their beak. They can also lash out quickly at your face so again, are best captured and handled only by an experienced wildlife rescuer.

It is important to remember that birds feel pain in the same way that mammals do, including us! Prompt veterinary attention will ensure that the bird will have the best possible chance of recovery.

Found a baby bird? Click this link for a guide on how you can help it.

preventing heatstroke

Keeping your pets safe from heatstroke during Summer

There’s a lot to love about Summer. Longer lasting evenings, beach days and ice-cream – the list could go on. However, soaring temperatures also make it a critical time to keep a close eye on your pets. 

When animals are hot they get overwhelmed and in an attempt to cool themselves down, they can actually produce more heat. This makes them extremely vulnerable to heatstroke. 

Please Note: Heatstroke requires urgent treatment and is a very serious, life-threatening condition which can cause damage to your pet’s internal organs, sometimes to the point where they stop functioning. This can be rapidly fatal, and often is. 

Symptoms to look out for include but aren’t limited to:

  • Excessive panting and drooling.
  • Mobility issues and instability as they move around.
  • Appearance of a seizure, which is actually their organs overheating.
  • Discoloured gums displaying as either dark pink or very pale. 
  • Dullness of character. 
  • Vomiting or diarrhoea 
  • Muscle tremors. 
  • Hypersensitivity to noise, light, touch.

The good news is, there are plenty of ways in which you can help prevent heatstroke. These can include: 

  • Ensure your pet is kept in a well-ventilated, cool space. Outdoor pets should always have access to shade and air flow. 
  • Make sure your pet has access to plenty of fresh, COOL, clean drinking water at all times. 
  • Never leave your pet in a car as temperatures rise very quickly and can kill pets rapidly.
  • Aim to keep your pet healthy, but be sure to only exercise at dawn or after dark, when temperatures are cooler. 
  • Avoid hot sand, concrete, asphalt or any areas where heat is reflected and there is no access to shade. 
  • Cool your pet down with a garden hose or leave it access to a kids paddling pool filled with cool water.
  • Freeze large containers such as 9 litre buckets, ice cream containers or old cordial containers, full of water and leave them outside for your pet to lick.
  • Try to keep your pet inside on hot days in a cool and well-ventilated area of your home.

If you suspect your pet has suffered heatstroke or is displaying any of the above signs, remove your pet from the heat and call Pet Doctor immediately on (08) 8268 6777. You can then begin cooling them down slowly with cool (not cold) water and fans. Do not apply ice or ice-cold water as this can make the problem worse. You must cool them slowly!

For any further information or advice, contact Pet Doctor today! 

Why regular grooming should be high on your weekly to-do list!

It might seem like a small detail of owning a dog, but in fact, maintaining regular grooming should be high on your weekly to-do list! Even if your dog doesn’t look overly scruffy, grooming has many health benefits that shouldn’t be overlooked, despite them not being immediately obvious. 

Many of these benefits stem from simply brushing your dog. Not only will regular brushing become a nice bonding routine for you and your pet, but it also helps to circulate blood flow and ventilate their coat which helps it to grow healthy and strong. Brushing will also remove any old damaged hair and keep excess grease at bay. This is important as too much grease can block pores and cause irritation and all sorts of skin problems. 

Furthermore, when a dog sheds, the loose hair can get tangled which causes matting. Left untreated, matting can create painful sore patches and in worse case scenarios can lead to infection. All of which can go unseen under their fur. 

The next major health benefit comes from regular nail maintenance. Allowing your dog’s nails to grow too long can cause their toes to spread, which in turn puts stress on the ankle joints. If this happens, they may experience some difficulty in walking around. Unfortunately, this is quite a common problem in dogs. Trimmed nails will keep them from curling, as well as stop germs from getting trapped in them. Extra long nails can sometimes grow so much that they grow into the foot! OUCH! 

Many owners are apprehensive about cutting their dog’s nails, but if you do decide to do this yourself be sure to invest in some proper nail clippers made especially for dogs. If you are nervous about this part of your grooming routine, feel free to seek advice during your next visit to Pet Doctor. Bring the clippers in and staff will train you in how to clip your dog’s nails. 

Animals can’t tell us when or where they’re hurting, so it’s important to keep on top of grooming as it gives you the opportunity to give them a basic health check during the process. You can check for matting, sores, grass seeds between their toes and other areas of the body and as well as fleas, or general lumps, bumps, scratches, and the condition of their eyes, ears and feet.

Of course, if you don’t feel up to the job or you own a long-haired breed, which requires substantial upkeep, professional groomers will be able to do all this for you. Just be sure to book them in on a regular and on-going basis to ensure health implications don’t arise in between appointments. 

For more advice or information, or recommendations for trusted grooming salons, be sure to contact Pet Doctor on (08) 8268 6777 and speak with one of our friendly nurses. 

Desexing: Why, When and How Much

You might be aware that you need to desex your pet, but could be unsure why that is, when to do so or what costs are involved. Keep reading to find all the answers to these pivotal questions below. 

Why:

Desexing is one of the most important health measures you can provide for your pets. Desexing pets offers both long-term and short-term benefits for him or her.

In females, it eliminates unwanted litters and uterine disease, as well as significant reduction in mammary tumours (breast cancer).

In males, benefits include reduced tendency to wander, urine/territory marking, testicular tumours and significant reduction in the risk of prostate disease and perineal herniation later in life.

When:

Desexing is compulsory in SA for all dogs and cats born after 1 July 2018. Cats and dogs have to be desexed by the age of six months, or within 28 days of when you take possession of a new animal.

The new desexing law is aimed at reducing the number of unwanted dogs and cats that end up in shelters every year.

It does not apply to dogs and cats born before 1 July 2018, and exemptions are available for working dogs, registered racing greyhounds and animals belonging to breeders registered with the Dog and Cat Management Board.

For both male and female pets, desexing requires day surgery. It is very important to thoroughly adhere to the after care information given to you by the Veterinary Nurse at time of discharge to avoid complications.

How Much:

The price of desexing is determined by a number of factors including weight, species, and health status of the animal. Prices charged for desexing are based on the type and quality of the products and services provided to your pet.

Desexing fees include: the pre-surgical exam, IV catheter placement, a full-day stay in our hospital; ear tattoos to indicate your pet is desexed and/or microchipped; nail clipping; pre-and post-operative pain relief medications; and a 10-day follow up exam to assess the wound and remove their sutures.

For further information about desexing or to book a surgery appointment please call 08 8268 6777 and speak to one of our friendly Nurses.

Charity Spotlight: Love Your Pet, Love Your Vet

This month we are shining the spotlight on an amazing charity, Love Your Pet, Love Your Vet. As proud members of their foundation, we felt it was necessary to highlight some of the industry’s biggest struggles and how this amazing charity is trying to help! 

Love Your Pet Love Your Vet is a registered charity leading the way in increasing wellbeing in the veterinary industry, raising awareness and building community support to highlight and address the disproportionately high rate of suicide within this profession, and providing psychological and educational support to these professionals.

Despite the perception that they get to play with cute puppies all day and make lots of money doing so, veterinarians are actually four-times more likely than the general population and twice as likely as other health professionals to commit suicide. 

There are many aiding factors to these statistics, which include but aren’t limited to, having to euthanise animals, dealing with difficult/demanding clients, financial issues, compassion fatigue, and unrealistic expectations. 

Sadly many of these people will suffer in silence and choose suicide as a way of dealing with these issues.

What is needed is a paradigm shift within this industry so our veterinary professionals can do the work they are so passionate about without the negative (and often life-threatening) consequences.

Wondering how you can make a difference? 

Either as a member of the community or as a veterinary professional, there are plenty of ways in which you can help. These include:

  • Making a donation
  • Becoming a member of the Love Your Pet, Love Your Vet foundation
  • Sponsoring the charity
  • Purchasing their merchandise

It’s important to support those in our community, even if it’s just by showing compassion and kindness to one another. If you are or know of a struggling veterinarian, be sure to check out Love Your Pet, Love Your Vet’s resources page for more information on how you can get help. 

It’s time to prepare for another magpie swooping season

It’s that time of year again. The sun is starting to shine, flowers blooming and spiked helmets have been dusted off to prepare for yet another magpie swooping season. Here’s all you need to know to get through the season unscathed! 

Despite what many people may think, magpies aren’t monsters put on this earth solely to terrify the lives of South Australians! They are just using their body language to warn others to keep away from their eggs or newly hatched chicks.

It’s only natural to protect the things we love. Magpies feel the same way, particularly when it comes to their babies. Due to common breeding behaviours, we tend to see a huge spike in magpie swooping from August through October when their protective instincts are in full force. 

It’s actually the male magpies that guard their nests, and they will attack anything they deem to be a threat from the time the eggs are laid until the young birds are ready to take on the world themselves.

So what can you do to get through magpie swooping season in one piece? 

The best thing you can do is to avoid problematic areas altogether. If you have suspicions of a magpie nesting area, try taking another route to get to your destination. Magpies tend to nest in the same spots, so if you were swooped during a previous season, it’s likely it could happen again in the very same location this year.

If avoidance isn’t an option, here are some other tactics you can try to keep yourself safe:

  • Swooping birds usually only target individuals, so try to travel in groups
  • Carry an open umbrella above your head
  • Wear sunglasses and a broad-brimmed hat
  • If you ride a bike, walk it through magpie territory or have a flag on the back of the bike that is higher than your head
  • Do not act aggressively. If you wave your arms about or shout, the magpies will see you as a threat to the nest – and not just this year, but for up to five years to come
  • Walk, don’t run
  • Avoid making eye contact with the birds.
  • If you know of an area that has swooping magpies, put a sign up to warn passers-by.

Do you have any precautionary tips you’d like to share to help others avoid being swooped this season? Let us know in the comments below! 

Be sure to keep track of recent South Australian attacks, as well as record your own on Magpie Alert.

Rabbit Calicivirus in Australia

Rabbit calicivirus (Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus, or RHDV*) is one of two viruses introduced into Australia to control wild rabbit populations (the other being myxomatosis). It causes extreme internal haemorrhaging and can lead to death within 1-2 days.

The first strain of RHDV was introduced in to the wild rabbit populations of Australia in 1995 from the Czech Republic, and has since diversified and evolved. As a result, many wild rabbits have developed immunity to calicivirus, with a number of non-pathogenic strains giving cross protection against the pathogenic strains.

RHDV strains currently present in Australia:

  • RHDV 1 – Original virus released in 1995 (also known at the Czech strain).
  • RHDV1A – Variant of type 1 isolated in Sydney in 2014.
  • RHDV1 K5 – Variant of type 1 found in Korea (Australian release planned in March 2017).
  • RHDV 2 – First recorded in Europe in 2010, and in Australia in 2015.
  • RCV A1 – Non-pathogenic virus present in wild populations.

In Australia, we are currently only able to vaccinate against RHDV 1 with the Cylap® RCD Vaccine.

*You may often see rabbit calicivirus referred to as RHD (Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease), RCV (Rabbit Calicivirus), and RCD (Rabbit Calicivirus Disease) depending on which country you’re in.

Symptoms of RHDV1 (and variants) include:

  • Depression
  • Lethargy
  • Neurological problems
  • Anorexia

 

What is the Korean Strain (RHDV1 K5)?

In 2014, the Australian government investigated a number of calicivirus strains not present in Australia, in an attempt to find one that would be effective against the wild rabbits that have immunity to the current Australian strains, particularly the non-pathogenic RCV-A1. They found that the Korean RHDV1 K5 was the most effective.

On the 29th April 2016, the Australian government announced that RHDV1 K5 was approved as a Restricted Chemical Product by the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicine Authority (APVMA) and would be scheduled for a controlled release. Read the media release HERE.

RHDV1 K5 is a variant of the RHDV1 virus released in 1995. The existing RHDV1 vaccine (Cylap®) is hoped to be effective against RHDV1 K5. An initial study completed by the NSW Department of Primary Industries compared the mortality of a small number of vaccinated and unvaccinated rabbits that were subsequently infected with a high dose of RHDV1 K5. All of the rabbits vaccinated with the currently available vaccine survived and did not show any clinical signs; none of the unvaccinated rabbits survived. But while the vaccine is expected to be effective, suspicious deaths, particularly in vaccinated rabbits, should be investigated.

Read more on the RHDV1 K5 roll out HERE, or contact your local state and territory representatives:

NSW Local Land Services 1300 795 299
Dept. of Primary Industries (02) 6391 3834 – Quentin Hart (DPI)
quentin.hart@dpi.nsw.gov.au
Qld Dept. of Agriculture and Fisheries 13 25 23 – Peter Elsworth
Peter.Elsworth@daf.qld.gov.au
Vic Dept. of Economic Development, Jobs, Transport and Resources 136 186 – John Matthews
john.matthews@ecodev.vic.gov.au
SA Primary Industry and Regions South Australia – Greg Mutze
Greg.Mutze@sa.gov.au
Tas Dept. of Primary Industries, Parks, Water and Environment 1300 368 550 – Michael Askey-Doran
michael.askey-doran@dpipwe.tas.gov.au
WA Dept. of Agriculture and Food 1800 084 881 – Susan Campbell
susan.campbell@agric.wa.gov.au
NT Dept. of Primary Industry and Fisheries 1800 084 881 – Peter Saville
Peter.Saville@nt.gov.au
ACT Transport Canberra and City Services 13 22 81 – Oliver Orgill
oliver.orgill@act.gov.au

 

What is RHDV2?

There has been some confusion between the new variant RHDV1 K5 (to be released in March 2017) and the discovery of RHDV2 in 2015, but these are completely different forms of the virus.

RHDV2 is a calici-like virus that was discovered in Europe in 2010, and is significantly different to previously known strains, including those in Australia. This new form has been found to cause death in a small percentage of rabbits previously vaccinated with the Cylap® vaccine. It is also able to infect rabbits at a younger age (as young as 4 weeks old), and some rabbits experience a more prolonged death (weeks vs days) than previously seen in other forms of calicivirus.

The Australian government rejected the use of RHDV2 based on information from European studies; however an Australian strain was discovered in wild and farmed rabbits in 2015. It is not yet known whether it is the same as the European strain, or just a relative. As such, we do not have enough information as to how it will affect vaccinated rabbits, and what studies are available show erratic results.

The Australian RHDV2 was first detected in the ACT, and subsequently in New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Northern Territory, Tasmania, and Western Australia.

Clinical signs of RHDV2 differ from other strains, and include:

  • Pyrexia
  • Seizures
  • Hypoglycaemia
  • Anaemia
  • Kidney and liver problems
  • Death

 

How Can I Protect My Rabbit?

The pathogenic strains of calicivirus are considered highly contagious and can be transmitted via: direct contact with infected rabbits; fomites (objects or materials that can carry the virus e.g. bedding, clothing etc.); and other animals/insects (birds, flies, fleas etc.).

Vaccination is still the best way to protect your rabbits from all forms of calicivirus. The Australian Veterinary Association has recently revised their recommended vaccination protocols as follows:

Kittens: 4 weeks, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks of age; then every 6 months for life.

Adults: 2 vaccinations, 4 weeks apart; then every 6 months for life.

 

Please be aware that this protocol is considered “off-label” – Cylap® is not registered for 6-monthly use or in rabbits younger than 10 weeks, and is not registered for use against RHDV2. Please make sure to discuss this with your veterinarian before administering.

 

Vaccinations should only be administered to healthy animals, and like all medications, carry the risk of side effects. These are usually minor, however, with extreme reactions being very rare. Pet Doctor will be implementing the new vaccination protocols as recommended by the AVA, but we greatly appreciate feedback and encourage you to discuss the risks/benefits with your veterinarian. These protocols may change as more information becomes available.

Other forms of prevention include:

  • Insect screens around your rabbit(s) enclosure to keep our flies and other insects.
  • Lots of disinfection – of people and equipment. Especially if there is movement between different locations (to and from shows, the vet etc.)
  • Showering between visiting different rabbit colonies.
  • Protect against fleas by using a preventative, such as Revolution.

Spring Has Sprung (Part 3) – Parasites and Preventatives

We’re finally starting to see some warmer weather and most of us can’t wait to get outside – including our pets! While this is certainly a good thing – more time outside leads to better enrichment and exercise – it does come with its risks. While parasites are commonly seen by our vets all year-round, the increased warmth brings nasty internal and external parasites out in force. As our pets spend more time outside, they become increasingly at risk of becoming infested if not on a suitable preventative.

Which Parasites Concern My Pet?

 

Fleas, Ticks & Mites

Fleas, ticks, and mites are the most common external parasites found on dogs and cats, but they can also affect birds and pocket pets (guinea pigs, rabbits, mice etc.). More than just being annoying, they can be extremely contagious and cause disease and discomfort for animals – and people!

Did you know it can take as little as 7 seconds for flea pupae to hatch and jump onto a passing animal? They feed on blood and can quickly pass from animal to animal (and will even bite people given half a chance). One adult female flea can lay thousands of eggs in her life-time, meaning that the fleas you see crawling on your pet are about 5% of your infestation – 95% of the problem are the eggs and larval stages that live in the environment (i.e. your home). Read more…

Fleas can cause your pet to experience allergic reactions, skin irritation, and intense itching. They also transmit tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum). Luckily, fleas are simple to prevent and control when using monthly preventatives (e.g. Revolution, Frontline Plus, Nexgard) and surface sprays.

The biggest concern with ticks is the variety of diseases that they carry and transmit to both pets and humans. Lyme disease is one of the more common of these, with symptoms including fever, inflammation, and lameness. Other diseases include typhus, fever, and tick paralysis. In South Australia we don’t usually see paralysis ticks (Ixodes holocyclus), but they are common in the Eastern states so it’s important that your pet is on a tick prevention when travelling and/or camping. It’s also important to check your pets daily for any potential stow-aways. Read more on how to check for ticks…

Heartworm

Heartworm disease is an extremely serious condition and can be transmitted to dogs and cats via mosquito bite. These worms can infest and damage your pet’s heart and lungs and can be ultimately fatal if not treated early enough. Prevention is key to keeping your pet safe, and preventatives are easy and safe to use. Read more…

Intestinal Parasites

Regular worming is extremely important, but is often overlooked. Puppies and kittens are usually born with worms, contracted in-utero or via their mother’s milk, and should be dewormed every two weeks until 12 weeks of age. After this age, deworming should be done every three months for the rest of their life.

In Australia, dogs and cats can get infected with hookworms, roundworms, whip worm and tapeworm.  The microscopic eggs and larvae can end up on pet’s feet from anywhere, and then they become infected when they lick and clean their feet. If your dog licks their bottom and then licks your or your child, or if your child pets your dog and doesn’t wash their hands, he or she can become infected with these parasites.

Cats get infected with hookworms, round worms and tapeworms by eating prey they’ve caught.  Even indoor cats can have worms, if they ingest things like geckos, mice, insects, or fleas. Up to 50% of dogs and cats are thought to be carriers of gastrointestinal parasites.